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Day 1 Kathmandu - Besi Sahar (700m)
An early start, with a long ride to Besi Sahar.
Day 2 Besi Sahar - Ngadi (880m)
A easy start to the walking. Look out for the mango grove near Khudi.
Day 3 Ngadi - Jagat (1320m)
The route continues easy to just before Bahundanda which is situated on top of a ridge.This then has to be descended on the N side.
Day 4 Jagat - Dharapani (1840m)
An interesting trail, blasted out of the rock face in places. The route goes through Tal which means ‘lake’ and the area round the village suggests that this was once a glacial lake.
Day 5 Dharapani - Chame (2630m)
Chame is the administrative centre for the region and boasts electricity, bank and post office so you can change money and post mail here.
Day 6 Chame - Pisang (3190m)
First a deep, narrow valley through forest, then the valley opens out with a huge sweep of slabs up to the right. This is Paungda Danda which rises 1500m above the river.
Day 7 Pisang - Manang (3535m)
The trail starts level, but ahead you will see a high ridge cutting across the valley. This has to be crossed, and the view from the top is quite startling. The airstrip of Humde is visible in the distance.
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Haggling near Humre airport,
Manang district
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Day 8 Manang (3535m)
Easy day with gentle walk up to Khangsar or higher to point on ridge (4200m) for good views of the Grand Barrier.
Day 9 Manang (3535m)
Rest day with further opportunity to explore the surrounding area.
Day 10 Manang - Letdar (4000m)
The main settled area has now been left and there are only tiny settlements before the pass and Muktinath.
Day 11 Yak Kharka - Thorung High Camp (4600m)
Something of a misnomer this, as it consists of a couple of quite well equipped tea houses. There is also a lodge at the foot of the pass at Thorung Phedi which we can also use, but the higher one is preferable because of the height-saving the following day. Good views are obtained of the Annapurna peaks from the top of a small ridge above the lodges.
Day 12 Thorung High Camp - Muktinath (3800m)
The long day over the Thorung La (pass) at 5416m means that we shall have an early start (5.30am). The trail winds through canyons formed by the moraines. Unfortunately, there are several false summits before the col is reached. However, there are splendid views from the top to make up for the discomfort of getting there.
Day 13 Muktinath - Jomsom (2700m)
The path follows the Jhong Khola valley down to the valley of the Kali Gandaki and to the administrative centre of Jomsom. On the way down we visit the village of Kagbeni which is very attractive and is at the entrance to the Kingdom of Mustang. In Jomsom we cross the river and start to descend the famous gorge - the deepest in the world. There is a very well served airport here.
Day 14 Jomsom - Tukuche (2600m)
An easy walk along the bed of the river, we arrive in time for lunch. On the way we pass through Marpha which is a centre for apple growing and has many apple products - pie, crumble, cider, brandy etc. In the autumn season we can visit the distillery in Tukuche and see the brandy being made.
Day 15 Tukuche - Ghansa (2470m)
Look out for the full-grown, stuffed yak in the Yak Hotel at Tukuche on the way down.
Day 16 Ghansa - Tatopani (1180m)
‘Tatopani’ means ‘hot water’, and there are hot springs here where you can soak for an hour or two. A good rest will be needed as the trail goes back uphill again the next day!
Day 17 Tatopani - Sikha (1940m)
It is a long way to the top of the ridge so we split the hill into two stages. Sikha is halfway up.
Day 18 Sikha - Ghorepani (2800m)
We continue up through the rhododendron forest to the top of the ridge, arriving by lunchtime. In the afternoon we walk the short distance to the summit of Poon Hill (3193m) to see the sun set over the Annapurnas, Dhaulagiri and Machhapuchhare.
Day 19 Ghorepani - Tadapani (2800m)
We start with another 200m climb to a ridge which gives views similar to those from Poon Hill, then on down a deep, narrow gorge and more rhododendron forest to the village. In Ghorepani and Tadapani there are many traders with stalls set out in the street, selling souvenirs. Many of the traders are Tibetans whose families settled here after the annexation of Tibet.
Day 20 Tadapani - Ghandruk (1940m)
Ghandruk is the second largest Gurung village in Nepal and is the site of a large Gurung arts and crafts centre and museum. The women’s guild of the village entertain us in our hotel with an evening of folk music and dancing.
Day 21 Ghandruk - Naya Pool - Pokhara
We continue the descent to the Modi Khola then follow the level path to Birethanti and Naya Pool where we take transport for the 40 km drive back to Pokhara. Kingfishers and monkeys are often seen along the riverside on the lower stretch.
Day 22 Pokhara
A free day in the attractive lakeside area of the main city in central Nepal. Early morning provides a spectacular panorama of the Annapurnas, Machhapuchhare and Manaslu.
Day 23 Return to Kathmandu
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